Bike Torque Specs: A Guide for MTB, Road and Gravel
Bike torque specs (Nm) for stem, handlebar, levers, seatpost, pedals and cassette, Shimano vs. SRAM, and when to use grease, threadlocker or carbon paste.
Quick answer: most bolts on a bike take 4 to 8 Nm (stem, handlebar, levers, seatpost, brakes). Cranks take 12-14 Nm on Shimano Hollowtech II and 54 Nm on SRAM DUB. Threaded parts such as pedals, bottom bracket and cassette lockring take 30 to 55 Nm. Carbon parts usually take lower torque and need carbon assembly paste.
Torque depends mainly on the part and its manufacturer, not the type of bike: what you see here applies to MTB, road and gravel, with the official Shimano and SRAM values where they differ.
The manufacturer always has the final say. Many components have the maximum torque printed next to the bolt (for example, "Max 5 Nm"). If it differs from this guide, use the value on the component.
Before you start
- Use a calibrated torque wrench. By hand there's no way to tell whether you're at 4 or 8 Nm, and with carbon that difference matters.
- Clean the threads and contact surfaces before installing.
- Tighten gradually and in an alternating pattern when a part has several bolts (stem, cranks, seatpost): first snug them all lightly, then bring them all to final torque.
- Parts marked with ⟲ have a reverse thread: they tighten counterclockwise.
Most common torque specs
These are the bolts you'll touch most often at home: adjusting the stem or handlebar, moving the levers, raising or lowering the saddle, swapping pedals or the cassette.
| Component | Torque (Nm) |
|---|---|
| Stem: steerer clamp bolts | 5–6 |
| Stem: handlebar faceplate | 5–6 |
| MTB brake levers | Shimano 4–6 SRAM 5.5 |
| Road shifters (STI / AXS) | Shimano 6–8 SRAM 6 |
| Seatpost clamp (frame) | 5–8 carbon 4–6 |
| Pedals ⟲ | 35–55 |
| Cassette lockring | Shimano 30–50 SRAM 40 |
| Center Lock rotor (lockring) | 40 |
The full chart is in the apps. MTBPro and ROADPro include a torque spec guide for the whole bike, part by part: cranks, bottom bracket, derailleur, brakes, rotors, axles, saddle and more, with the torque, the tool, whether it needs grease, threadlocker or carbon paste, and an image showing where each bolt is.
Shimano and SRAM don't always agree
A bolt's torque depends on the part and its manufacturer, and there can be quite a difference between brands. Some examples:
- Brake rotor bolts (6-bolt): 2-4 Nm for Shimano and 6.2 Nm for SRAM.
- Brake caliper: 6-8 Nm for Shimano; for SRAM, 9.5 Nm on MTB and 5 Nm on road.
- Cranks: Shimano Hollowtech II cranks are tightened with two pinch bolts at 12-14 Nm; SRAM DUB, with a single center bolt at 54 Nm.
- Rear derailleur mounting bolt: Shimano specs it at 8-10 Nm; SRAM, 11 Nm on MTB (and no grease) and 5 Nm on road.
On some parts the torque varies so much by model that only the manufacturer's value will do: the derailleur hanger (a UDH hanger takes 25 Nm; many conventional ones, much less), the saddle rail clamp (every seatpost has its own spec), thru axles and suspension mounting hardware.
Grease, threadlocker or carbon paste
- Grease: prevents creaks and squeaks and keeps metal parts from seizing due to corrosion. It's standard on the threads of pedals, bottom bracket, cassette, axles and on stem bolts.
- No grease, per the manufacturer: the mounting bolt on SRAM MTB derailleurs (conventional Eagle) and the threads of the UDH hanger. SRAM specifies this explicitly.
- Blue threadlocker (medium strength): keeps vibration from loosening safety-critical bolts, such as brake caliper, rotor or chainring bolts. Many new bolts come with it pre-applied; if you reuse one, apply fresh threadlocker. It can be removed with standard tools.
- Carbon assembly paste: increases friction between two surfaces, so the part doesn't slip even at lower torque. It's used on carbon interfaces, such as handlebar and stem or seatpost and frame.
- Clean and dry: the contact between the stem and the steerer tube, especially with a carbon steerer: no grease there.
Reverse threads
- Left pedal: tightens to the left (counterclockwise) and loosens to the right. That way pedaling doesn't loosen it. The right pedal is a standard thread. Look for the "L" stamped on the axle.
- Threaded bottom bracket (BSA): the drive-side cup has a reverse thread and the left-side cup is standard. This can vary depending on the frame standard (Italian, T47…), so check the markings on the cups before tightening.
Common mistakes
- Using the headset top cap bolt to "tighten" the stem. That bolt only removes play from the headset. What holds the stem in place are the side pinch bolts.
- Leaving road levers loose. Unlike some MTB levers, road levers must be firmly secured: if they rotate when you lean on them, you can crash.
- Using the same torque for every brand. Shimano rotor bolts take 2-4 Nm and SRAM rotor bolts 6.2 Nm; a Shimano caliper 6-8 Nm and a SRAM MTB caliper 9.5 Nm.
- Greasing the bolt on a SRAM MTB derailleur. SRAM specifies installing it without grease, at 11 Nm.
- Installing carbon parts without carbon paste. To keep them from slipping you'll end up overtightening, which is exactly what you need to avoid.
- Forgetting threadlocker on the brake caliper or rotors when the bolt doesn't come with it. These are safety-critical bolts.
Sources: Shimano torque manual (Dealer's Manual DM-TORQUE-01, June 2023, and SI-0035A instructions for rotors), SRAM, Zipp and RockShox user manuals (MTB brakes, Eagle, Eagle Transmission, Road AXS, DUB, cassettes, chainrings, Zipp stems, Reverb AXS and Maxle axles), and Park Tool and Trek recommendations for thread preparation. Values reviewed in October 2026.
Frequently asked questions
Are torque specs different for MTB and road bikes?
It depends more on the part and the brand than on the type of bike. Pedals, a bottom bracket or a cassette take the same torque on a mountain bike as on a road bike. But some parts are different on each type of bike and have their own torque spec, like the brake/shift levers, and some brands do make a distinction; for example, SRAM torques the brake caliper to 9.5 Nm on MTB and 5 Nm on road.
What is torque?
It's the turning force used to tighten a bolt, measured in newton meters (Nm). Too little and the part can shift or work loose; too much and you can crack a carbon part, distort a clamp or strip a thread.
Do I need a torque wrench?
Yes, especially if you have carbon parts. It's the only way to know how hard you're tightening. For most bolts on a bike, a 2 to 15 Nm wrench is enough; for pedals, bottom bracket and cassette you need one that goes up to 40-50 Nm.
Why do carbon parts take less torque?
Because carbon is sensitive to clamp compression, and overtightening can crush or crack it. That's why you use carbon assembly paste, which increases friction so the part doesn't slip at lower torque.
Which value should I use if the manufacturer says something different?
Always the manufacturer's. Many components have the maximum torque printed next to the bolt (for example, "Max 5 Nm"). The charts in this guide are typical reference values.
Which way do you tighten the left pedal?
To the left, counterclockwise. The left pedal has a reverse thread so pedaling doesn't loosen it. The right one is a standard thread.